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Monday, 19 March 2018

True Confessions from the Restaurant Business


“Few things are more beautiful to me than a bunch of thuggish, heavily tattooed line cooks moving around each other like ballerinas on a busy Saturday night. Seeing two guys who'd just as soon cut each other's throats in their off hours moving in unison with grace and ease can be as uplifting as any chemical stimulant or organized religion.”

― Anthony Bourdain

I imagine if you are a celebrity chef, like Emeril Lagasse, Gordon Ramsay or Wolfgang Puck the restaurant business may seem glamorous and the rewards immense.  Lucrative sponsorship opportunities (pasta sauces with your name on it), television appearances, extravagant appearances in Beverly Hills, Aspen and Palm Beach – the sky is the limit.  But for most chefs and restaurant owners, the reality of the restaurant business is quite different from the Food Network, and it more closely resembles indentured servitude than Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.  Long hours, a constant need for staffing in an industry beset with immigration and documentation issues, rising food prices, inflation pressures and more, it’s a wonder any restaurant can succeed.

Yet, there are over 1 million restaurants in the United States, generating $799 billion dollars in sales and employing approximately 14.7 million people.  “The restaurant workforce represents 10% of the total U.S. workforce,” explains Abraham Zaiderman, a food services and retail restaurant consultant based in Potomac, Maryland, “it is a powerful social and economic force in this country.”

We all have our favorite local restaurants, those reliable neighborhood places where you always know you will find a good meal.  Maybe it is a friendly waiter or bartender, perhaps it is the consistent food or early bird pricing that brings us back week after week.  I think we all know of favorite restaurants that lost their way and eventually closed.  The restaurant business is a notoriously difficult place to succeed, but that does not dissuade many from trying.

According to a study about failed restaurants by Ohio State University, 60 percent close or change ownership in the first year of business, 80 percent fail within five years.

Customers rarely consider all the different factors that impact the bottom line for a restaurant, explains Abraham Zaiderman, “food prices, wages, legal and compliance costs, rent, demographics all play a major role in whether a restaurant will succeed.  Kosher restaurants, for example, are closed Friday evenings, Saturdays and often Saturday nights, in addition to Jewish holidays.  Think about how challenged your restaurant’s business model is when you are closed more than one-seventh of the time.” 

Online reviews and social media are also playing an important role in determining the future of the restaurant business.  “A Harvard Business School study found that a one-star increase in Yelp rating leads to a 5-9 percent increase in revenue,” says Todd William, founder and CEO of Reputation Rhino, a digital agency in New York City, “consumer reviews and word of mouth on social media channels, especially Facebook and Instagram are now critical for the restaurant business.”  Negative news events can cost companies hundreds of millions of dollars.  Chipotle Mexican Grill has struggled since its highly publicized E. coli outbreak in 2015.  2016 sales totaled $3.9 billion, tumbling 13% from a year earlier.

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